10 Easy Steps to Fabulous Fabric Flowers - So Simple, even Hubby Can do it! by Jennifer Payne

In this tutorial I am going to teach you how to make ever so simple fabric flowers, let's first gather our ingredients, hubby has followed along with the tutorial to make his very own. 

Step 1 - Gather all your ingredients  

Scissors

Something Round  about 10cm length/width

Scrap/Small Pieces of Left Over Fabric that fit your Round Object Lid

A Needle and Thread

A Pen or Pencil

Pins (Optional)

Button for the center

Step 2: On the Reverse side of your scrap piece of fabric, Draw Around your Round Lid to Mark out your Circle. Cut your Circle Out. 

Step 3: Repeat Step 2 until you have a total of 6 round circles. Each one of these will form the petals. I am making the pink ones and Robby (Hubby) is now making the Riley Blake Car ones in the back. He's not the neatest of cutters so I helped him out. :)

Step 4: Take one of your Circles, and fold it in half, then fold it in to a quarter. As pictured below.

Step 5: Holding your quarter of fabric you folded in step 4. Make 3 Stretched, long straight stitches across the raw end of your fabric. Make sure you secure with a small strong knot at the start of your long straight stitches. As Pictured below. Important do not cut your thread, you will need it for your next petal.

Step 6: Pull the fabric tightly together, whilst your thread is still attached, so it looks something like this.

Step 7: Whilst your other fabric is attached repeat steps 4-6 for the next petal. As shown below.

Once you have pulled your fabric tight against the starting knot again it will look like this.

Step 8: Continue steps 4-6 for all 6 petals. When you are finished it will look like this, if it does, then well done. :) Your on the right track. Make sure all your fabric petals are squished tightly and evenly together.

Step 9: With your stray thread, we are now going to use this to secure all your petals in place. You can do this by looping back into the starting petal. Place your needle under one side of the petal and push out through the center and through to the other side of the petal. Try to keep this as close to the bottom as possible, so it's all hidden :) I think the picture below gives you a good idea of what I mean. Repeat this all the way around and once securing the last petal, push the needle through the center of the flower and secure your stitching with an appropriate knot to suit you.

It will look something like this. Very cute, don't you think :) x

Step 10: The next part is really easy, choose your button and sew it through the center of your fabric to finish. Make sure you secure your button. :) Wallaa! your done! Embellish, cushions, hair bows and much more. 

 Hubby made this one! Proof that anyone can do it! :)

Show me where you have used your fabric flowers by emailing me at patchworkparadise@gmail.com or visiting us on facebook. 

Hope you loved the tutorial. Lots more to come, please share and encourage the world to pick up and be a happy sewer.

Happy Stitching and Have a Fabulous Day.

Jennifer xxx

How to make your very own Inside/Out Satchel! Eeek :) by Jennifer Payne

This Tutorial Will Guide you through the complete steps enabling you to make your very own basic inside/out satchel, if you don't understand any of the stages in this tutorial please don't hesitate to ask any questions.

Step 1: Gather Your Ingredients :)

You need approximately 1 Yard of Fabric, 

Snippy Scissors,

Dress/Sewing Pins, 

A Tape Measure, 

Preferably a Sewing Machine but can also be done by hand, 

A Pen/Tailors Pencil, 

Book for easy sizing of bag, Molly makes Magazine and Ipad or similar size, used for this one x

An Iron

 Step 2: You will have preferably 2 different fabrics, each measuring around a 1/2 Metre or 1/2 Yard each. Take your Ipad/Chosen Bag Size Item (Or You can measure it the traditional way to fit whatever size you choose), we are going to first create a bag flap. Sketch the outline of the IPAD (desired measurement) on to the reverse of your chosen fabrics. Position as far to the edge as possible but do make sure you leave a nice seam allowance. In my picture I have roughly 1.5inches all around for the seam allowance. This is very generous so you can choose to take off as much as your comfortable with. 

    

As Pictured Below, you should have a nice neat outline. 

Step 3: On top of your already sketched line add an additional 1.5cm minimum all around the edge this will be your seam allowance and then cut neatly the outside. It will look something like this when your finished.

Step 4: Lay your pieces out with patterns facing towards one another. Pin and Get Ready for stitching.

 Step 5: Place your fabric under your sewing machine and using a straight stitch, follow the line you sketched around the edge but make sure you leave a 2cm minimum gap between where you start and finish this will allow you pull your fabric inside out. Oh and don't forget your locking stitches to secure your stitching. :)

Step 6: You will then Pull the fabric Inside and out, the same way you do a cushion and slip stitch the 2cm gap  and it should look something like this. In need of a good ironing though  x First part completed! This will be your lid!

Step 7: We are now to make both the front and the back panel of the bag. Using an item slightly bigger than your Ipad, you want your measurements for the bag to be at least a 1cm bigger than your ipad measurements and this applies to all round your item. I happen to have a Molly Makes Magazine which fits very nicely with my Ipad sized bag flap. Once you have finished with your measurements you repeats Step 2 - 6 again, you do this for both the front and the back panel.

Step 8: Sorry About The Blurry Picture Here! It's hard taking a picture with one hand! Next You need to measure the sides of the bag. So measure the left Side (20cm) Bottom (30cm) and right side (20cm) these are my measurements yours may be slightly different depending on what you use. The total I had was 70cm and I added 5cms for the seam allowance and extra room just In case you need it.

Step 9: Using the measurements of your bag mentioned in step 8 Cut 2 Long Strips measuring approximately 2-3inches in width (If you want it wider, just add extra width) . In my case both strips measure 75cms long.

In the same way you did the front, back and lid panel in step 2-6 you will do the same for these long strips keep your sewing foot sat along the edge of your strips as you sew, this will give you good equal distance all the way round. Make sure your patterns are back to back and stitch all the way around leaving a 2cm gap again. Then pull your fabric inside out till it's all come through. Slightly fiddly as it's long and thin.

You do the same again for the Strap by repeating the above steps, the only difference is making the length longer I used a full width of fabric 110cm's. If you want your strap to be longer adjust the length according to how you want the bag to sit on your body.

Step 10: You should have 5 pieces, 1 Bag Flap, 1 Front and 1 Back Panel, 1 Strap and 1 Centre Support. I think these all need a good Iron Don't you?

Step 11: Wallaa! They've been ironed! and they look so much better  The next part is a little bit fiddly. I left the strap out of this picture but it is their, promise. 

Step 12: Using the 70cm Centre Support Piece and One of the Front or Back Panels your going to pin as closely to the edge as possible (as pictured), grip with your finger/thumb a long the seam and pin with your other hand. This will be were you sew as close to the edge as you can get. 

It will hopefully look like this! Your going to sew exactly where you have pinned and as near to the edge as possible.

Step 13: You may have excess Centre, so heres what to do. Bend it over and Stitch a nice straight line. Don't forget to back stitch to secure. This is a great way to use Bag Hoops if you want to make it extendable but we are doing a very basic version for your convenience. You may need to adjust your tension setting to around 0-1 as the fabric is now quite thick, do this for the other side of the Centre support as well. Try to make they sure they are evenly lengthened and matched on both sides.

Step 14: Stitch along your pinned seam (from step 12), as close to the edge as possible and make sure underneath your bag is nice and straight. Stitch all the way to the bottom and lock in your stitches when you are their. When your approaching a corner get all the way to the end of your straight stitch and as your about to turn, place the needle down into the fabric, lift your foot and then turn your stitching, this covers any gaps in corners etc, it's a good idea to keep your stitching as neat and unclumped as possible as this stitching will be on view. Don't forget you may need a tension setting of 1-2 and make sure you do a Back Stitch at least twice when you get to the end of each line of straight stitch. Go all the way to the end of your line and do a double back stitch, repeat the turning instructions for the last corner, place needle down, release the foot and turn your fabric. Again making sure it's straight and stitch all the way to the end. Secure your stitching with a back stitch and you've finished this step.

Step 15: It should look something like this, this is the inside of the bag. 

Step 16: Before We do anything else. We are going to attach the bag flap. Make sure your pattern sits the right way up. Pin the flap on to the back of your bag, as pictured.

Step 17: Secure the Bag Flap with stitching, I ran my sewing machine over this 3 times to give it extra strength, I am not lucky enough to own an industrial strength sewing machine. ;)

Step 18: Attaching the Straps, pin in place. This is really important, when your sewing your straps on. Stitch a full Rectangle/Square were you want you want your bag strap to join and on both sides stitch horizontally and vertically through your stitching, it will look like an X. This gives the bag good strength, to carry all kinds of heavy items without the fear of your bag falling to pieces. Stitch The straps on both sides in the same manner try to make sure they sit equally.

Step 19: The final part is repeating steps 12 and 13 for the front panel. Be very careful when your stitching not to catch underneath as you secure the front, I don't think you want to be unpicking uneccessarily. This is your bag now finished. Feel free to embellish with all sorts of lovely goodies  

Admire your work :)

All this beauty needs is button holes and embellishments! Not me! the bag. Share your bag makes with me and give me your best pose ;) I know I look like a Blue Peter Presenter in mine apparently! :) you can email your pictures to and we will place you on my wall of fame followers soon to be introduced email me at patchworkparadise@gmail.com or visiting me on facebook. 

Happy Stitching, Jenny xxx

How to Recover a Lamp Full Tutorial by Jennifer Payne

In this tutorial you will learn how to recover your dusty old lampshades, so bring those ugly lamps out of the attic and make them earn there keep. 



Ingredients:
Fabric to cover lamp (Size Varies Depending on Lamp) 
Silicone Spray Adhesive Glue (The stuff you use to lay carpets with :P) - Heat/Flame Resistant
A Dusty Old Lampshade/or maybe Even a New one :)
Scissors (I don't want you to attempt to cut fabric with your teeth)
If recovering indoors you will need a Giant piece of Cardboard, especially for use in your home if it's raining (Protects everything)
A pen & a Tape Measure
(Optional)
Ric Rac, Ribbon or Pom Trim is optional for trimming your lamps 
Glue Gun if you wish to trim your lampshades

Step 1: Gather your ingredients, You need 100cm x 50cm of fabric for a 19 Centimetre Depth Shade. You also need a pair of scissors, an old lampshade, Silicon Spray Adhesive Glue (The stuff the use to lay carpets with, make sure non flammable) a Large piece of cardboard to protect your house, a Pen and a tape measure.

Step 2: Lay your fabric down flat against a floor/table or hard surface of your choice, Pattern down to the floor. Take your lampshade drum and place it in the left hand corner approximately 1 Inch from the edge of the fabric leaving a seam allowance. Your lampshade drum should have a joining strip use that as a guide as you rotate your lampshade, or simply mark a beginning point with a pen, so you know where you will finish off.

Step 3: In my photo and this tutorial I am going to use the lampshades Join, but you can use a pen if you want to mark a starting point. Your going to take your working pen ;) and place your pen below your shade directly on to the reverse of the fabric as shown and very slowly roll your shade a full circle following with your pen to mark your outline all the way around till you meet with your start point again.This is how you are going to get that fabric to fit perfect on your easy or potentially awkward lamp shades.

Step 4: When you have done this, just be sure to check that you have a complete line from start to finish add a minimum of an extra 2 Centimetres to your sketched out line this will allow a seam allowance and room for any marginal area you may have. Repeat Step 3 for the top of your lampshade but make sure the bottom of your lampshade sits on the first line you sketched. 

Step 5: It should look something like this in the picture, just to double check you have done it correctly Measure the width between bottom and top lines and make sure it's a minimum of the depth of your lampshade in my case it has to be an equal 19cm from start to finish. Picture here shows what you will be measuring between when you have done this. Again take your tape measure and add a minimum of 2cm's to the top line as you did the bottom line allowing room for error if there is any and good coverage.  It is better to have to much than to little as they say. Join the beginning points and the end points (the 19cm gaps in this instance). Then cut the fabric template you have made for your lampshade out and place on the side.

WARNING this could get messy! 

Step 6: Next take your box, lampshade & the spray adhesive. Using the box as a carpet floor protector. Place your hand in the center of the lampshade, as shown in the picture. Spray an even, thin coat of adhesive all around the lampshade using your hand to gradually turn it as you go. Once the entire drum is covered place upright on your box to avoid the glue coming into contact with anything unneccesary. 

Step 7: The clock is ticking now and your glue has already started to dry, place your fabric template pattern down towards the ground and once again spray a thin and even coat all over the reverse side of the fabric, starting from left to right, as this is the order you will place the fabric onto your lampshade first.

Step 8: You now have 1-3 minutes depending on your glue to get this right and it's a little bit fiddly but certainly not impossible (I find heavier cottons are actually easier to use on lampshades than lighter cottons like the Michael Millers of the world) so you may wish to try with a cotton duck fabric if it's easier for you to manage. I find the best thing to do is to place the fabric loosely on to your lampshade and then adjust where necessary using your hands to mold out lumps and bumps, stretching the fabric out as you go. Your knees are also a very useful tool :)  Don't be afraid to lift and replace as the glue is excellent and pliable for a couple of minutes.

Step 9: Once you've positioned the fabric properly you may have excess and are wondering what you do with that excess fabric at the end. Fold the sticky fabric into a seam, it should loosely hold but your going to secure it properly in the next stage.

Step 10: With your adhesive spray or a glue gun. Spray just underneath the seam and push down to hold in place, use a towel to flatten out firmly. Towels are also a great tool to buff out any bubbles, just like wallpapering.

Step 11: With the excess seams on the top and bottom it's time to Tidy up. With your spray adhesive, lightly spray under all the extra fabric hanging over the edge and fold it over the lampshade, the next picture shows you what it will look like as you go. You have two options here depending on how much excess you have you can make a neat seam all the way round or you can fold and tuck under the wire frame of your lampshade.

Step 13: Your nearly there, do the same for the top of the lampshade, folding and spraying the adhesive as you go. Allow to dry for at least an Hour before using. Double Check that the glue you have is heat/flame resistant. 

Hope you enjoyed the tutorial. More Tutorials Coming Soon.

 You can email your pictures of your lampshade creation to me and we will place you on my wall of fame followers, soon to be introduced, email me at patchworkparadise@gmail.com or visiting me on facebook. 

Jenny xxxx